Bits and Pieces : ChangdeokGung Palace and Samakson

Why hello there, blog. I’m sorry for neglecting you for longer than usual, but we needed a break for a bit. I’ve been feeling like a scatterbrain lately and I have been attempting to re-root. Just like any expatriate in a foreign country, I’m continuing to experience ups and down, pros and cons, things I love and things I dislike. Together, they make this experience unique and so, some how (not always easy), I can find it in my soul to accept them all. Lists are a scatterbrain’s best friends and in true scatterbrain fashion, the items are in no particular order.

Things I currently love:

1. Heated wood floors
2. Planning my winter trip (I’ll share more about this very soon, but let me tell you, it will be epic.)
3. Finishing Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods” and moving onto Jeannette Wall’s “The Glass Castle”
4. Today’s bright blue winter sky
5. Japanese food with a touch of Korea
6. Winter hiking

Things I currently dislike:

Are the shoes really necessary? I don't know...

1. Encountering careless motorists anywhere I travel on my bike
2. Feeling out of touch with friends and family
3. Missing the presence of animals around me (not half foot dogs dressed in sweaters, shoes and scarves or sickly pets in animal shops)
4. The though that I will not be at home for the holidays.

A couple of happenings:  

ChangdeokGung Palace (昌德宮), Jongno-gu, Seoul
The direct translation of the palace name is "the palace of prospering virtue" and it is one of the Five Grand Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty. Unfortunately, much of it was destroyed during the Japanese occupation, so what my friend Elise and I explored was the remaining 30%. It was absolutely breathtaking. Before the palace, though, we just had to travel to Itaewon for Seoul's "best burgers," so we were a little behind schedule (worth it). But this meant that the "Secret Garden" of the palace would be closed by time we got there. I don't know much about this garden, but we both agreed that after having fallen in love with the book with the same title as children, we MUST see this place. We will return in the spring when cherry blossoms are in bloom. 

Samakson, Chuncheon, Gangnam Province 
This last weekend, I rode my first train to Gangnam with my MeetUp group. We trekked up Samak Moutain in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Celsius! In true Korea fassion, there were times when it seemed much more like amateur rock climbing, but I have zero complaints there. I love hiking with this group, but when hiking, it is sometimes necessary to separate oneself to thoroughly take in the surrounding beauty. Luckily, during the second half I found myself far enough ahead to do just that. At the end of the trail, we all met up for Dakgalbi (my first time) and wow, was it tasty.


Samakson, Chuncheon, South Korea: it's a tad bit chilly. from Lana Wright on Vimeo.

French Press that Korean Conflict.

I'm sure most of you are well aware that today at about 2:30PM, North Korea opened fire on Yeonpyeong Island, South Korea. In pictures. Two South Korean marines were killed, fifteen injured, 3 civilians injured, and the neighborhood lit on fire. Not until reading a fellow teachers facebook status did I know about the event because there was absolutely no word of it at my school (at least not in English and not directed toward me). Once I brought it up, the subject was quickly changed because "there is nothing to worry about" and "this happens all the time." I certainly feel as though outsiders might over-exaggerate the North and South Korea conflict, but I also think that South Koreans have become desensitized when a threat does still exists. After all, two are dead and many are losing their homes. A uranium enrichment program does exist and who really knows with any clear evidence what exactly takes place or is happening in North Korea. Anyway, the whole thing certainly put me on edge, but the worst part was being the only one amongst many that felt this way. I needed someone that felt similar to feel better, to feel a sense of support.

So Jake and I met up for some dinner. We didn't need to say much about the incident, just quickly discuss what had happened and how crazy it is that nobody cares! Don't laugh, but we also assigned two meeting spots in case of an emergency. And after this post, I will register with the U.S. embassy (something I have not yet gotten around to). Not to scare anyone back home because I really do feel, for the most part, safe. I just want to be as safe as possible.

So Long to Instant Coffee

Oh my gosh, how I hate you so. You are disgusting, make my stomach hurt and to top it off, I'm not convinced you even contain a single drop of caffeine.Call me a coffee snob, but I am from Portland and have been spoiled to death by all of Portland's REAL and GOOD coffee awesomness.

Today, I finally put my foot down and decided to say NO to instant coffee in this land where its dependence is fanatic. Why the obsession? I do not know. What I do know is that I cannot stand another sip of this crap and so I bought a french press at E-Mart.

 

"Oh yeah, I need real coffee, though. Instant coffee in the french press? I don't think so." So, I hesitantly headed to the coffee section of E-Mart. Everything was instant, grinds produced by the instant coffee companies or waaaay overpriced. Quickly, I texted my friend that has a coffee shop (SuA Bean) below my building and, score, he told me sells grinds too! I buy 100 grams of a chocolatey Tanzania, Kiliminjaro blend. I cannot express how excited I am to wake up in the morning and drink a cup of strong, dark, fresh 커피.

And to top off the evening, my friend threw in some chrysanthemum for free.

Namdaemun Market: a colorful shopper's paradise.

Today is a huge testing day for grade 3 high school students in South Korea. So, how does this affect me? There are high school students testing at the middle school down the block from my elementary school. To keep the neighborhood quiet, my school had the day off. Like I said, huge testing day.

I needed this day off. Lately I've been feeling pretty run down and, of course, there is always someone there to remind me: "you look tired." So, I slept in until 9, laid in bed until 11, drank an unhealthy, but satisying amount of coffee until 1 and then finally took off to explore Namdaemun Market in Seoul. Namdaemun Market is one of the oldest (dating back to 1414) and largest traditional markets in the country.

Talk about a treat! You can find anything and everything within this maze of about a dozen blocks. You've got your clothes, food, candy, jewlery, paper, music, toys, etc. etc. etc. The catch? You music weave through herds of people traveling at all different speeds, many ready to use any means to get you out of their way. If you're lucky, you can trail behind a highly coordinated native going at just the right pace. And don't forget about the motorcycles rushing up from behind. Cars are not allowed on the streets, so these rather fast fellas are constantly on the go, delivering materials to all of the market street stands. So very much worth the experience. Oh yeah, and worth the prices! For girls, there are tables with enormous stacks of sweaters (5,000W), shirts (5,000W) and jackets (10,000W) all throughout. For everyone, most of the tastiest treats cost just 1,000W.

And tomorrow my BFF/vfaceypeupsexy Shannon comes to visit from Dague. We will be going to Seoul for our second dose of the Flaming Lips. It will be an Oregon reunion with another Oregonian friend teaching in Jeonju joining us. Hip, hip, HOOORAY!

Shannon and I, Sasquatch Music Festival 2008

The Flaming Lips, Sasquatch Musical Festival 2008

Miso: Original Korean Musical

Long week. Staying in. Eating some kimchi and drinking a beer. Stumbling. Listening to Ray LaMantagne and thinking about people from home. Was definitely in need of a relaxing, me-night. Tomorrow, I am traveling to Jebibong Mountain in Chungcheongbukdo (South Korea's central province) with a MeetUp group for some hiking. Everything I've read has said the area is absolutely amazing during the fall season.

Yesterday, my co-teacher and I had quite the day. After classes, we visited a nearby school for an "open class," or lesson that is open to the public/other teachers. The co-teaching team was inspirational. Their students were having fun, learning English, and performing way above average. This was particularly impressive, as the school is located in a lower income area and performing much higher than my wealthier students. As with in the U.S., schools located in lower income neighborhoods of South Korea receive extra funding. The difference, though, is that low-income schools in the U.S. are still performing much lower than their wealthier counterparts.

Every time I try to pinpoint the issue in our school system (not to say they don't exist in the South Korean school system), I wind up with a giant headache because of how complex both the system and its issues are. One thing that I will not argue against, though, is the need for teachers to be held accountable for being good teachers. And no, I don't mean by students' test scores. That is the lazy method and has, not surprisingly, proven ineffective. Why not have open classrooms in the U.S., where teachers are critiqued based on their actual teaching and have the critique be in the form of valuable feedback by others actually in their profession (not the puppet-holders)? Sigh...

Anyway, after the open class, we visited Insa-dong Cultural District in Seoul, which was amazing. Basically it was hand-made, local jewelry heaven. Not only did we buy pretty jewelry, but we made it too! But not before eating the tastiest tofu meal I've had in my entire life. Jung-gu, Seoul was then our last stop, where we watched, "Miso," the musical. It was the perfect way to end the night. The loud rhythm of the traditional music made me feel alive.

Beautiful love story, “Miso”
A story where a young couple in Chosun Dynasty meets and falls in love with the background of Korea’s beautiful four seasons, spring, summer, fall and winter.  On one snowy day in winter, Seolhee (meaning snowy girl) who is as pure as snow bumps into a man. Their encounter evolves into love as warm as spring breeze after cold winter days and they spend a great time which seemingly lasts forever.  Unexpected parting gives them a chance to ensure their true love.  They dream of fantastic and romantic love, promise their everlasting love and throw a party. In “Miso”, one woman’s love story is expressed through Korea’s traditional melody and dance. You can experience the beauty and excellence of Korea’s unique traditional culture such as Korean dancing, Korean instrumental performance, Korean traditional percussion quartet and Pansori (a traditional Korean narrative song). 

Seoul Zoo: Let the Good Times Roll

Today the teachers at my school went out on a little "get out of the school and bond" adventure, something most public schools in South Korea partake in. All teachers headed to Seoul Grand Park and myself, my main co-teacher and part of the 4th grade team took on the zoo. I don't exactly like zoos unless they are of the rehabilitation/save/protect sort and I'm about 150% this one is not, but the teachers wanted this and you know, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. 

We had a blast and I learned that a good majority of Koreans LOVE taking photos, so we took a ton.
 
After our adventure, the teachers all met for a feast of about five different duck dishes. Talk about tasty. Mah-shee-ddah!


Seoul Grand Park- Seoul Zoo from Lana Wright on Vimeo.


When I got home, I took my nightly bike ride along the Anyangcheon River, but this time went the opposite direction. Surprise, I discovered some beautiful fountains!

Broth no a bear?

I cried on my way to work this morning. No, not because I'm sad, but because last night the weather literally dropped 25 degrees. At about 8am it was 36 degrees F and according to weather.com, felt like 29 degrees F. And this was not just any 36 degrees F, but with strong winds forcing a constant clenched jaw and waterfall snot and tears. Nearby school, I walked up to a crosswalk and encountered the vice principal of my school. It's really difficult for the two of us to communicate because of the language barrier, but he kindly took my hand and rubbed it with his. This may sound strange to some, but it was purely a kind gesture and reassured me that I am appreciated at the school. 

South Korea is known for having four distinct seasons, meaning, unlike the Pacific NW's 2 weeks of summer, 2 weeks of fall, etc...and so on tango dance, the weather will switch in a day and stay that way. But every native I've talked to is surprised that it has switched this early, so whether or not it will stay, I am uncertain. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining because I can already tell that fall around these parts is going to be absolutely breathtaking.

And lucky for me, I will be enjoying every last bit of it on my new bike. A new friend in the area decided that she no longer wanted hers and so she sold it to me. SCORE! and thank you, Jenna :) Since I've gotten it, I've been riding along the Anyangcheon River every day, usually at night. The wind in my face, city lights on the water, trail separate from cars, and the perfect combination of hills that provide me with that funny feeling in my stomach combine to make me feel free as a bird (cheesy, but serious!). I love work, but afterward I feel exhausted. Biking creates this separation from work and my personal life, like during and after biking, is my time and teacher-Lana has been shutoff. I love the re-energized feeling and it certainly doesn't hurt that Anyang is an extremely bike friendly city. 

Eye candy for your enjoyment: 

Met a friend from orientation in Myeongdong, Seoul for some shopping. The early me enjoyed a cup of joe. Stronger than most, but still not strong enough.

And we had these tasty treats. If you know their name, please share. I forgot, but must have another. 

Call me Chef Lana because I made eggs, tiny eggs and they are more difficult than large ones...

First time in Suwon. Please notice the female hand in the male back pocket. 

Dean, cheesecake, kiwi smoothie, coffee, and zebra print seats. 

 

Full moon two nights ago. 

That brick building on the left, that would be my school. 

 

I wouldn't dare end this post without more English t-shirts.  

Sundae Adventure

Sundae- pig intestine stuffed with blood clot, noodles
and vegetables served with liver and lung. Also pictured
is Duk Bok Ki. 

I can now check off my third item from the top seven exotic dishes for foreigners because tonight I ate Sundae (순대). No, not an ice cream sundae, but pig intestine stuffed with animal blood clot, noodles, and vegetables. My Sundae dish was mixed with pig liver and pig lung with Duk Bok Ki on the side. It was more appetizing than it sounds, trust me. 

My friend that works at the neighborhood coffee shop and that is a Korea native (also the same friend that introduced me to beondaegi or silkworm larva) took me to the older, original downtown neighborhood of Anyang, Manan Gu. Dongan Gu, which resides toward the east of Anyang and is the newer, wealthier downtown neighborhood is where I live. I love both neighborhoods for different reasons. 

My neighborhood has smaller, somewhat traditional feeling outdoor markets, but they are nothing compared to Chungang Market, or Central Market, which we explored after our lovely meal. The labyrinth-like outdoor, but covered market could be the destination for the next skittles commercial. You have your red apples, yellow bananas, green lettuce, orange tangerines, purple grapes and then also scarves, sweaters, furniture, and prepared food all demonstrating just how beautiful the colors appear when mixed. I settled on some delicious apples.

Chungang or Central Market in Manan gu, Anyang, South Korea

After getting home, my friend texts me, "Be careful princess, that is a poison apple." Despite his English being rocky and my Korean being far from conversation level, we are still able to share some pretty comedic moments. Working as hard as we must for the other to understand makes the laughing response that much more satisfying. One of my goals coming to Korea has been to improve my ability to maintain friendships, something I felt I very much struggled with at home. So far, I think I'm making some pretty decent progress.